Nike Authenticity Checklist

Look up the product code on kitcod.es and confirm it matches a real Nike kit entry.

Search the product code and compare the results to the kit you're checking. If different teams/seasons show up, be cautious.

Nike product codes are typically on the small label beneath the wash/care label. Placement that looks off can be a warning sign.

A valid code still needs to match the exact shirt being sold. A match for a different club or season is a major red flag.

Many Nike kits use a six-digit style code plus a three-digit color code (for example 123456-100). Older kits may not include a color suffix.

The color suffix should align with the kit's main color. If the code suggests a different base color, that's suspicious.

Nike color codes generally cluster by color families. An obviously wrong range can indicate a mismatched or copied label.

Check for the small season/production line on or near the wash label. Missing production info can be a warning sign.

Nike production codes typically include a season indicator and year. The format should make sense for the kit's era.

The production season/year should align with when the kit was released. Big mismatches are suspicious.

Compare the production code, product code, and other labels. Counterfeits often mix details from different eras.

Placement varies by era, but tags should look consistently attached where Nike typically places them for that time period.

Nike tag styles change over time. Compare the tag look to known examples from the same season range.

Genuine Nike hang tags typically use a real sticker for size/product info. Printed-on “sticker” info is a common counterfeit tell.

On many retail Nike kits, the hang tag is attached with a black plastic barb. A different attachment can be normal, but it should match the era and retailer.

Player-issue shirts often don't come with standard Nike hang tags when issued to teams. If sold retail, they may have a retailer tag instead.

Some Nike player-spec shirts use printed internal care information rather than a sewn-in label. This varies by era and tier, so compare to verified examples.

Look for spelling mistakes, odd spacing, or inconsistent formatting. Sloppy labels are common on fakes.

Where manufacturing country is listed, it should be consistent across labels. Mismatches are a strong red flag.

Pen marks can happen, but marks on a normal retail kit can indicate tampering or suspicious origin. Treat them as a signal to look closer.

Cross-check the manufacturing country across neck and care labels. They should match.

Nike often prints multiple regional sizes. The conversion should be consistent with the wash label and not contain odd or conflicting mappings.

If a Japanese size is shown, make sure it follows the typical mapping for that era. Counterfeits often get this wrong.

Compare font weight, spacing, and layout to verified examples from the same season range.

Modern Nike kits often include an authenticity patch at the lower front. Absence can be normal on some items, but if present it should look correct.

Nike often differentiates tiers with tag styling. The patch finish should align with whether the kit is player spec or fan version.

Where applicable, the metallic strip should look integrated and high quality, not dull, printed, or cheaply imitated.

If the authenticity tag includes a code, it shouldn't show up across many unrelated listings. Repeated codes can be a red flag.

Compare the swoosh shape and proportions to verified examples. Fakes often get the curve or thickness slightly wrong.

Edges should be crisp whether embroidered or heat-applied. Loose threads or fuzzy borders are suspicious.

If heat-applied, the swoosh should sit flat with no bubbling, peeling corners, or uneven adhesion.

Placement should be consistent relative to the crest, collar, or sponsor. Crooked or oddly placed swooshes are common on fakes.

Turn the shirt inside out and check behind the swoosh. Excess glue, messy stitching, or large backing patches can indicate a counterfeit.

Nike often uses embroidered crests for fan versions and pressed/silicone-style crests for player-spec kits. A mismatch is suspicious.

Look for crisp borders and clean finishing. Fraying, bubbling, or rough trimming is a warning sign.

Spacing between elements should look even and intentional. Counterfeits often have cramped or uneven detailing.

The crest should sit flat and feel well-made. Puffy embroidery, stiff materials, or rough stitching often indicate a fake.

Check alignment relative to the swoosh, collar, and sponsor. Misalignment is a common giveaway.

Compare to verified photos from trusted retailers or official imagery, focusing on small details.

A good listing shows detail shots of tags, logos, and the crest. No close-ups often means the seller is hiding something.

Lighting, background, and image style should be consistent. Mixed photo sets can indicate reused images.

Reverse image search key photos. If images appear in other listings or websites, treat it as a major red flag.

Make sure internal labels and product codes are visible in photos, not just mentioned in the description.

A metal mesh/grid backdrop is commonly associated with counterfeit listings. Treat it as a strong warning sign.

Ideally the product code, crest, swoosh, and tags all look consistent and correct.

Mismatched codes, reused images, strange label formatting, or poor finishing should be treated as warning signs.

Check seller history, reviews, and responsiveness. A good seller will usually provide extra photos when asked.